Varenna, Italy

 

Tuesday, August 3 – 5

Adam and I woke up on Tuesday morning, packed our backpacks and headed for the ferry to catch an 8:45 am boat to Bellagio, another villa on Lake Como. Bellagio, also called “the Pearl of the Lake” is beautiful with old-world charm and located across the lake from Varenna, our final destination. Once arriving at the Town Center, we toured through the small town enjoying hidden cobblestone staircases, windows filled with colorful flower boxes, the sun shining on our faces and wine shops featuring tastings of some of Italy’s most famous wine varietals.

Stopping at a small wine shop, Enoteca Principessa, Adam’s eyes grew big as he saw tastings for many of his favorite wines and in particular, the Gaja, an exclusive Italian wine producer located in Piemonte and considered the “undisputed king of Barbaresco”. As we experienced a few 1 oz pours of wines, we savored the delicate and smooth taste of our final taste, a 2006 Gaja Sperss.

After lunch, we hopped on the ferry destined for Varenna. Once we arrived, we searched for our bed and breakfast, 'Casa Cristina' located in an area of Varenna called Vezio. Stopping to ask a local for directions, he explained, “Go by Farmacia, take shortcut down the road, head up to brief town intersection and it will be located right there” while gesturing with his hand that it would be a bit of climb to our final destination.

We climbed the relentless rocky cobblestone path to the bed and breakfast passing a few groups of people on their way down. They smiled at our effort and reminded us that a cold beer was waiting up ahead; good motivation while you are drenched in sweat and wondering “how much freakin’ farther is this place!” To further explain this climb, picture getting on a Stairmaster, setting the level at 11 with a max of 15 and climbing the stairs without any points of recovery for the next 15 minutes with a 20+ pound backpack on your back.

Once arriving, we collapsed into chairs at the small, charming restaurant located at the top of the hill called 'Il Portichetto', located next door to her bed and breakfast (both the bed and breakfast and restaurant were owned by Rita, a wonderfully warm, friendly and helpful Italian woman).  For our efforts we enjoyed a few beers, a small plate of “salumi”, a couple cappuccinos and then booked our 2-floor spacious and homey apartment for 2 nights. We decided the hike to and from town would be much easier without our 20+ pound packs and we reminded ourselves that this hike would also help keep us in shape.

Next, we headed out to explore the beautiful and quiet town of Varenna. We walked along the lakeside promenade, explored the “beach” (more like a sandy basketball court with a few umbrellas and lounge chairs), local shops and then headed to the local grocery store to buy our Italian feast for the evening. We picked up pasta with mushrooms, fresh pesto, fruits, cheese, crackers, prosciutto and a bottle of Valpolicella Repasso before heading back up to our “home”.

Once we arrived, we showed Rita what we were making for dinner. In broken English and shaking her head she explained “No, no pesto with pasta with funghi (mushroom). It’s no good”. She paused and said, “Un momento” and returned with a stick of butter, a few dried sage leaves and explained how to create our feast. Grind up the sage, heat the butter, add the sage, add the cooked pasta and “Viola”—a simple and delicious Italian dinner!

This morning, we woke up to a blue sky and our neighbors greeting us with “Bueongiorno” (good morning), as they hung their clothes out to dry and soft Italian music played in the background; the local church bell ringing on the hour and every half hour; Italians greeting each other with “giorno” and “ciao” while enjoying their breakfast of a cappuccino and cigarette. We are in the heart of a true Italian villa experience and enjoying every minute.

Enjoy your day – Ciao!